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View Article  Bully for the Teachers

Last Saturday night we went to a house concert performed by Laurie Ornstein, an English teacher turned folk singer who has taken to busking for a living during the protracted high school teachers strike. The concert was lovely – full of new and classic protest songs, some rewritten to focus attention on the teachers’ current plight.

For those of you who haven’t been following this wrenching Israeli development, the Secondary School Teacher’s Organization (SSTO) has been on strike for more money and better conditions for 45 days as of this writing. Kids from 7th through 12th grades have had no school, teachers haven’t been paid.

A second organization, the National Teacher’s Union (NTU), which mostly represents elementary school teachers, settled with the government earlier in the year, meaning that K-6 kids are continuing with their regular school routine (though the NTU has threatened to join the SSTO strike in solidarity next week).

But despite my sympathy for the teachers and the clearly deplorable conditions they must work in, I cannot fully support them in their current work action. This puts me at odds with many of my friends who are teachers or who work in education. The problem is: the teachers demands are justified, but they’re not willing to give back what’s really needed to reform the system once and for all.

Don’t get me wrong, the teachers have a legitimate beef and one that deserves our collective concern. With a starting salary for new teachers of just NIS 2800 ($700) a month and a maximum after 36 years of service of NIS 15,000 ($3,500), teachers in Israel are among the lowest paid workers in the country but have unquestionably one of our most important jobs. Attracting and retaining quality teachers simply cannot be done on the paltry wages teachers earn. Moonlighting is both expected and required just to get by.

In addition, teachers work in conditions that make it near impossible to educate a class. My younger son Aviv’s class has nearly 40 children. How can you do anything other than play policeperson in a class that size?

The teachers have also lost over 8 hours a week of teaching time due to budget cuts over the past several years but are still expected to cover the same amount of material. This, said performer Ornstein at her house concert, turns classrooms into bagrut factories. One student asked Ornstein, “are you going to be teaching us sections e, f, and g?” referring to what would be on the upcoming matriculation exams. Ornstein answered “I’m going to teach you how to read, write and speak English.”

The teachers are therefore demanding higher wages, lower class size and a return of the hours taken away. All worthy goals. So why the impasse between the teachers and the government?

The government wants the teachers to agree to a broader reform of the educational system. This reform started with the Dovrat Plan which was approved by the cabinet of then prime minister Ariel Sharon. The Dovrat Plan called for significantly higher wages but demanded that teachers work a full five day work week in a single school. It stipulated that teachers pass accreditation exams just like lawyers, doctors and engineers, and be regularly evaluated. Most importantly, it empowered principals to hire and fire based on merit, thereby weeding out ineffective teachers and rewarding rising stars.

The Dovrat Commission was headed by Shlomo Dovrat, a businessman from the hi-tech giant ECI Telecom who looked at the broken education system as something to be fixed by applying the kind of management and personnel expertise that built his own company.

Dovrat should have been the only game in town, but when Ehud Olmert assumed the prime minister’s office, he put in place a new education minister, Yuli Tamir, who unveiled her own watered down reform plan, one she said would place less emphasis on management and more on pedagogy. It still included the call to empower principals. The result nevertheless was that the impetus of the Dovrat Plan was lost and the teachers saw weakness which they translated into an opportunity to make their own demands without agreeing to the reform.

I shouldn’t say all the teachers. Many agreed with Dovrat and many agree with the new reform too. The problem is the head of the teachers union, Ran Erez, who Amotz Asa-El, writing in the Jerusalem Post, calls “coarse,” a “ruffian” and a “hoodlum.” To Erez, a school principal’s empowerment is his own disempowerment. His job is to keep as many teachers employed as possible, even if this isn’t in the best interests of the system.

Erez reportedly went so far as to liken the Dovrat plan to the “Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact,” a reference to the deal Hitler struck with Stalin before setting his sites on the rest of Europe. Tough words from a tough guy who is known to hurl profanities in negotiations and never brought either reform plans up to a vote by the very teachers he claims to represent.

My friend Rafi Rottman, an English teacher and guidance counselor at Jerusalem’s Keshet School, disagrees with my analysis. Erez and the teachers union aren’t against the reform, he told me, but the salary increases proposed are not enough to cover the increased hours the reform demands. “Teachers will still need to run to another job” to make a decent living, Rafi explained.

And even though the government has offered to up salaries by 26%, this neglects to take into account that the teachers have been working since 1999 without a contract and were promised a 15% increase in 2002 which never came, Rafi went on. In addition, for the last 5 years, salaries have not been linked with inflation, eroding in real terms another 10%. Parents who can afford to pay “extra” do get smaller classes and more programs, but this only exacerbates the divide between haves and have nots. In this light, the government’s offer doesn’t look quite so enticing.

That’s not the way the government portrays it of course. Education Minister Tamir says she asked Ran Erez “why the teachers didn’t strike for years? Through 16 cutbacks, they didn’t strike. He (Erez) told me ‘we could prevent the reform without striking.’ Their objective now,” claims Tamir, “is to prevent the reform.” And implementing the reform remains the crux of the government’s position.

The bottom line is that 44,000 teachers have been on strike for 45 days while 600,000 teenagers grow increasingly disaffected and bored as they wander from shopping mall to street corner looking for something to do with their long and empty days.

How will it all end? I’m still backing the government on this one, but with reservations. Maybe the reforms need to be modified to address the teachers’ real needs. But to reject reform out of hand, as Erez is leading his union to do, is unnecessarily obtuse. One side ultimately has to back down.

Or maybe not. Perhaps the struggle will continue for another few months, at which point most of the school year will have been lost. It’s hard to even imagine what that will mean. Will students have to learn for another year, thereby delaying their entry into the army? Will they head off to college with only partial knowledge?

Any way you look at it, it spells disaster for the innocent teenagers and well meaning teachers who have to suffer from a bully’s intransigence.
View Article  Thanksgiving in Israel

(This week's post is a reprint from last year answering the perennial question of "what do you do in Israel on Thanskgiving?" Enjoy!)

Every year, just about this time of the month, I get a flurry of emails from friends and colleagues all with pretty much the same message. It goes something like this:

“Happy Thanksgiving, that is if you celebrate it over there…er, do you?”

So, what do immigrants from the U.S. to Israel do on the fourth Thursday of November? Well, for many years, we kept up the traditions of the old country. Together with a group of friends, we got together for a feast of turkey and stuffing, cranberry sauce (if we could find it in the stores…difficult but not impossible), and pumpkin pie.

As a slight twist, we made it an adult only dinner party, to contrast it from the weekly meal with guests that we already celebrated once a week with the whole family…you know, the one called Shabbat…

But as the years rolled by and we got farther and farther from our old life in the States, the imperative to gorge ourselves and pretend we were interested in sports began to fade. With no Macy’s Day Parade to set the early morning mood, Thanksgiving became just another workday. Still, we kept joining our friends for the obligatory repast.

Until, a few years ago, when my wife Jody and I found ourselves in a very different Thanksgiving locale: India. An opportunity arose for us to take two weeks without the kids touring Delhi, Agra, Jaipur and Varanassi. We had a fantastic time (you can read about it here). But we missed the annual Thanksgiving bash.

That turned out to be OK. Because we replaced it with a new tradition, one that is in many ways much more Israeli. Now on Thanskgiving, we make it a point to eat Indian food.

What’s the connection? Here’s where it gets linguistically improbable. The Hebrew for “to give thanks” is l’hodot. The common Hebrew expression “hodu lashem” means “give thanks to God.” Hodu is also the Hebrew name of the country of India. India…thanks…Thanksgiving.

But there’s one more thing: hodu is also a Hebrew synonym meaning turkey. Turkey day, day of giving thanks, India day. How weird is that? Madonna is probably yanking on the red strings big time right about now.

But it feels right. Despite Israelis’ predilection for all things American, their connection with India is equally special. In addition to the historic parallels (both countries were founded in 1948 after shaking off British rule), India has become a place of pilgrimage for post-army young people. Tens of thousands travel there to seek enlightenment…or just a space to explore what it means to not have to get up in the morning and don a uniform.

When we were in India, a young man approached us and started speaking in Hebrew. He wasn’t Israeli – he was an Indian salesperson, but had chosen to learn Hebrew as a second language, figuring it would be just as useful – if not more so – than English.

For our Anglo-Indian Thanksgiving this year, Jody made a delightful meal of poppyseed chipatis, lentil and apple dahl and mango-date chutney. Then we sat down and watched “Return from India,” a cheesy but picturesque Israeli movie that takes place along the Ganges River.

Despite our new traditions, we still keep at least one thing from our Thanksgivings of yesteryear. We try to give thanks for all the blessings we have in our lives. For me, that’s easy.

I’m thankful for my beautiful wife who I love dearly.

I’m thankful for my adorable and rambunctious children who give me no end of joy (despite the occasional tsuris).

I’m thankful that I’ve been able to write this blog every week for the past five years.

I’m thankful I had the pluck to move to Israel some 13 years ago…and the courage to stick it out.

And I’m thankful that I’ve been able to travel to so many places around the world…including India where I picked up some (but not all) of the traditions that make Thanksgiving in Israel special.
View Article  Purging a Lifetime of Memories

My parents announced recently that they would be moving out of our childhood home of over 40 years into a retirement community in a few months. That meant that the time had finally come for me to go through all the papers and junk that’s accumulated in the closet of my old room since I was a pre-teen. My parents made it clear that anything left on moving day would be summarily tossed.

I set aside a dedicated chunk of time at the end of our recent trip to the States to accomplish a difficult but necessary task: to wade through the some 30 boxes of papers and memorabilia I’d collected and save only the most important, sentimental or nostalgic documents while purging the rest.

For a pack rat like me, it was one of the toughest jobs I’ve ever had to do.

It wasn’t just that I had to part with papers and various doodads that I once spent time lovingly collating - from radio station decals to the posters that once covered my bedroom walls. It was that I had to do it so quickly. I would have preferred a more leisurely process, where I could review each page before saying a tearful goodbye. Instead, I leafed through wads at a time, assigning most of it for the trash with nary a significant glance.

In the end, I returned home with a lifetime of memories culled into a meager four boxes. By my calculations, that’s an 86 percent junk rate, and even that amount was probably too much given how much space (or lack thereof) we have in our current apartment.

Now you might say I’m making too big a deal over stuff I haven’t seen or used, in some cases, in over 40 years! Just toss it and move on. Doesn’t it say in the book of Ecclesiastes “vanity of vanities, all is vanity.” But I don’t think I’m being obsessive. Let’s take a look at what I found and you be the judge.

Tell me, if you were in my place, would you have been able to trash my collection of vintage TV Guides, one for every “Fall Preview” issue throughout the entire 1970s, including issues where The Brady Bunch and The Partridge Family weren’t yet in perpetual reruns? Yes, you say? I don’t believe it…

And what about the hundreds of record albums I’d collected – from Elvis Costello, Bruce Springsteen and Supertramp to Queen, Pink Floyd, The Tubes, and other progressive rock and punk icons of the mid to late 70s – that I no longer have the equipment to play? Wouldn’t you save at least some of them for posterity?

On the other hand, my collection also included literally thousands of newspaper clippings on subjects I apparently thought might be of interest to someone (a university historian? The Library of Congress?) in the years to come. But does anyone remember, let alone care today, about the 1980 John Anderson Presidential campaign? Whether 60 Minutes’ Mike Wallace was an anti-Semite? How to achieve “the perfect prom?” Or where to rent a VCR in 1982? Except for a few memorable articles, they’re all in the recycling bin now.

What about the books on my shelves? My parents promised to take them to the library, but will that learned establishment really accept a 30-year-old copy of “The Sensuous Man?” Or the riotous “Jonathan Segal Chicken” (a parody on Richard Bach’s 1970 bestseller “Jonathan Livingston Seagull”)? How about “Mysteries of Reincarnation?” or “The Story of Mankind” by the now obscure Hendrik Van Loon? (The latter is now available in its entirety on the web). I tucked a few books into my luggage; the rest were left to the fates.

As I pillaged and purged, I documented some of what was being discarded. The list goes on for pages. I had saved rush week brochures from the various fraternities I once considered, every story or poem I ever wrote in my Creative Writing classes at Oberlin, phone books, calendars, reel to reel tapes from my days as a radio DJ (has anyone even seen a reel to reel player for the last 20 years?), boxes and boxes of high school and college essays, blue book exams and class notes, the original printed copy of master’s degree thesis, Zippy the Pinhead comic books, copies of Mad Magazine and National Lampoon, an old issue of Creem from 1975, the Collected Stories of William Faulkner, a complete videotape collection of David Lynch’s spooky cerebral TV masterpiece Twin Peaks, and much more.

There were maps of Europe and Japan from my trips there (all available now, updated, on the Internet of course), several April Fool’s editions of the local San Francisco Chronicle, an application for an Elks Club college scholarship, a brochure for a door-to-door Bible salesman program I apparently signed up for in 1979, a poster of Richard Nixon sitting on the toilet and another of a granny riding a surfboard reading “Hang Twelve You Mothers,” transcribed lyrics from Tom Lehrer and Monty Python songs (I saved the words to the Lumberjack Song for my 16-year-old Flying Circus-loving son), and of course my extensive collection of bus schedules and route maps (did I mention that I was a freak about public transportation systems growing up?)

But the hardest of all to part with were my letters. I’d saved every letter I ever received, from age 8 up until recently when easier-to-store emails have pretty much replaced paper missives. On the one hand, these letters represent an invaluable record of who my friends were at various stages in my life, not to mention what they thought of me, growing up and beyond. On the other, they filled up no less than three boxes by themselves. In the end, I chose to keep a sample or two from each writer. The rest sadly were sent to that place where old letters must eventually go.

My memories are now relegated to just that, with scant few physical mementos to document them. My parents can comfortably move without encumbrance. But I can’t help feel that something has been lost. That my children – if they ever wanted to – will not be able to learn quite as much about their father as they once could have. This article is all I have left, a public testimony to some 40 years of hording. Is it so wrong to grieve? The trade-off: 26 boxes are not littering our already crowded house.

Three days to purge the accumulated wisdom of several decades may not seem like much. But for me, it was a lifetime.
View Article  3 Days in New York with Kids

On our recent trip to my brother’s wedding, we stopped off in New York before heading to California. We had three days and three kids who had never spent any time in Manhattan before. We packed it in and had a great time. Here’s some of what we did:

Bike Riding in Central Park

Entirely man-made, Central Park is strikingly beautiful and, because it’s mostly flat, superb for bike riding. If you go on a Sunday, the park’s roads are closed off to vehicular traffic, creating a haven for bikers and joggers. You can circle the entire perimeter of the park on two wheels in about an hour and a half at a leisurely pace.

We were lucky that our day in Central Park was clear and warm. However, that also meant that the bike rental shop, near the boathouse, was completely sold out of bikes when we arrived just after noon. We found a shop a 20-minute walk away called Pedal Pushers at 2nd Avenue and 69th Street that was well supplied and very friendly. Our bike ride was cited by most of our family as one of the high points of the trip. The only tricky part was riding in traffic the few blocks from Pedal Pushers to and from the park.

Pedal Pushers
1306 Second Ave (@E 69th St)
(212) 288-5592 or toll free (877) 257-9437
http://pedalpusherbikeshop.com
$5.99 per hour (up to $24.99 for a day). Helmets an extra $3.99 each.

Ellis Island and the Tenement Museum

My grandfather and his sisters came through Ellis Island in the early 1900s, so a visit to this gateway to the U.S. was a historical education for our kids. The island is now a museum run by the National Park Service. It has a good audio tour and a number of rooms with relics from the 60 or so years from 1892 to 1954 the island was operational. More than 12 million immigrants passed through Ellis Island during that time. The tour was more interesting for our older kids – 9-year-old Aviv got a bit bored and frustrated near the end of the hour and a half walk through.

You get to Ellis Island on the Statue Cruises boat from Battery Park at the southern tip of Manhattan and it includes a free stopover to view the Statue of Liberty – there’s an audio tour there too. The boat leaves every half hour, so you can stop over for thirty minutes at Lady Liberty and hop back on. A scheduling tip: the lines for the boat (which includes a tight security check akin to getting on a plane) can get long midday, so arrive early.

We followed up our historical New York experience with a fascinating visit to the lesser-known Tenement Museum which is located on Orchard Street Street in New York’s Lower East Side. The museum (which must be booked in advance) currently runs three tours – “Getting By,” “Piecing it Together” and the “Confino Living History Tour” – all of which lead groups of 20 or so people on a one-hour walk through a restored tenement building. A personable guide tells the stories of how immigrants lived in the early part of the 20th Century. Although the tour tries to present a variety of nationalities, a look at the list of residents in the building shows mostly Jewish names and a spreadsheet showing working hours indicates that a good 2/3 didn’t work on Saturdays.

For us, the visit was important because my grandfather and his sisters lived on Orchard Street – maybe in that very same building. It’s fascinating to retrace their first steps in a new country.

Ellis Island
(212) 363-3200
Open daily 9:15 AM to 5:00 PM. Closed Dec. 25. Extended hours in the summer
No entrance fee, but the Statue Cruises ferry costs $11.50 for adults, $4.50 for kids ages 3 to 17. Boats leave Battery Park in Manhattan every 30 minutes on the half hour.
www.ellisisland.com

Tenement Museum
108 Orchard Street at Delancey
Advanced reservations highly recommended: call (866) 811-4111 or book online at http://www.tenement.org. Same day tours can be reserved after 11:00 AM. Tours run every 40 minutes from 1:00 PM until 5:00 PM.
Single tour ticket prices: $17 adults, $13 students. There are discounts for booking multiple tours.

Paley Center for Media (formerly The Museum of Television and Radio)

I have wanted to visit the Museum of Television and Radio for 15 years, ever since I missed one of the crucial concluding episodes of that classic angst written TV drama thirtysomething, the one where Michael finally quits and tells evil boss Miles Drentell that “it doesn’t always have to be the best, but it has to be yours.”

The Paley Center for Media (as its now been renamed) is not a museum in the conventional sense. You start off in a room filled with computers attached to a massive database of some 120,000 TV shows. You pick up to 2 shows, then are ushered into another room filled with cubicle-sized watching stations. You type in your show number and it instantly appears on the screen in front of you. For parents, this is an opportunity to wax nostalgic (I also watched an episode of my favorite kids show, The Banana Splits). Amir watched episodes of The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy and Monty Python’s Flying Circus. Aviv viewed Goosebumps and an animated video Tin Tin. Everyone was in boob tube heaven.

Paley Center for Media.
25 West 52 Street
(212) 621-6600
Open Tuesday – Sunday noon to 6:00 PM, Thursday until 8:00 PM.
$10 adults, $8 students, $5 for children under 13.
http://www.mtr.org/

The American Museum of Natural History

New York’s Natural History Museum is considered to be the best of its kind. A massive structure along Central Park, the museum contains exhibits on everything from geology to human evolution. The dinosaur room, with its huge reconstructed dinosaur skeletons is a perennial kid-friendly favorite.

For our family though, it was the Hayden Planetarium that scored top marks. Maybe it was because our kids had never been to a planetarium before, but they were utterly fascinated. The show, narrated by Robert Redford, chronicles the creation of stars, planets and the universe itself through “cosmic collisions,” past present and future. The entire planetarium shakes as a meteor hits earth, stunning NASA imagery shows the violent face of our sun. As we were exiting the show, Amir turned to me and said “it was too short.” That’s high praise from a teenager.

Outside the planetarium are additional exhibits showing a timeline of events since the Big Bang and the relative sizes and distances from Earth of various celestial bodies. The show runs every half hour from 10:30 AM until 4:30 PM (Wednesday starting at 11:00 AM) and Friday until 7:00 PM.

American Museum of Natural History
Main Entrance: 79th Street at Central Park West
(212) 313-7278
Open 10:00 AM – 5:45 PM
General Admission $19 adults, $12.50 children. With planetarium $26 adults, $17 children
http://www.amnh.org/

Broadway

No trip to New York would be complete without a Broadway show and we indulged this expensive passion with the family friendly musical Hairspray. Rather than pay full price, we had two options: stand in line at the TKTS half price ticket booth in Times Square and hope that a show we wanted to see had tickets available that day, or buy them online before we took off.

We opted for the latter. Do a Google search for the show you want and add “discount tickets” – you’ll come up with several different organizations selling orchestra and mezzanine tickets for around $50 each. Hairspray was available through Playbill (the site requires play seekers to sign up for a free membership and receive daily emails before Playbill will open up the pearly half price gates).

After a show, visit the three floor M&Ms World headquarters in Times Square for some chocolately fun. You’ll never believe how many shapes, sizes and flavors M&Ms come in!

M&M’s World
1600 Broadway
(212) 295-3850
http://www.mymms.com/service/locations.asp

The Millburn Hotel

When does a hotel become an attraction of its own? When it’s ranked 2nd for “Top Ten Family Friendly Hotels” in the authoritative guide “New York with Kids.” What that means in practical terms is that the hotel has a decent if not extensive lending library of kid-oriented DVDs and provides free access to PlayStation II video game consoles in the room (there’s also cable with HBO and wireless Internet access).

The upshot for my wife Jody and me was that we were able to leave the kids in the hotel by themselves happily playing games and watching videos while we treated ourselves to a gourmet meal at Le Marais, a kosher French steakhouse in midtown Manhattan. When you travel with kids, you don’t get a lot of alone time with your spouse. Our night out, courtesy of the Millburn, was worth every penny of Manhattan’s notorious high hotel rates.

Millburn Hotel
242 West 76th Street (between West End and Broadway)
(212) 362-1006 or toll free (800) 833-9622
Suites and individual rooms available; our one bedroom suite ran $369 a night plus tax and local hotel fees.
http://www.milburnhotel.com/

Madras Mahal Indian Restaurant

On Lexington Avenue, between 26th and 27th Streets, there are no less than 5 Indian vegetarian restaurants, two of them even being kosher. Our kids love Indian food (see my column on eTested – Restaurant Reviews) and at lunch time, several of the restaurants on this block offer all you can eat buffets. Madras Mahal, the kosher establishment where we ate, charged just $8.95 each for a sumptuous meal consisting of Indian bread, dosa (a lentil-rice filled crepe), several curries, rice, a bean soup and rice pudding for dessert. Everyone was satiated and our pocket books weren’t drained.

Madras Mahal
104 Lexington Ave
(212) 684-4010
Buffet open 11:30 AM to 3:00 PM daily
http://madrasmahal.tripod.com

The Empire State Building

No visit to New York would be complete without a trip up to the top of the Empire State Building. We were warned that the lines would be long as there were separate queues to buy tickets, go through security and wait for the next elevator, but when we arrived at 9:00 AM, the waits were relatively short and we were up on the 86th floor in short order.

We ordered a couple of audio tours where Joe the Taxi Driver explained what we were looking at – helpful if you’re not a native. A tip: the audio headset has jacks for two headphones – bring your own and more than one person can share a headset at the same time.

As you’re waiting in line, various Empire State Building barkers will try to sell you on the optional “Skyride” motion simulator. Don’t be taken in. We were, and it was a waste of time and money at best, and a nauseating jolt of a ride for some in our party. It’s expensive and the only time during our trip we felt we had truly overspent unnecessarily.

Empire State Building
350 Fifth Avenue between 33rd and 34th Streets
(212) 736-3100
Open 8:00 AM to 2:00 AM (last elevators go up at 1:45 AM)
$18 adults, $13 Youth (12-17), $12 child (6-11)
http://www.esbnyc.com/
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